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The Isle of Harris, An Introduction

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Written by John Angus Macleod

Thursday, 10 April 2008

by JohnAngusMacleod

Many people will be aware of the type of cloth known as Harris Tweed which is so called because it is hand made on the Isle of Harris. However, even though tourism generates an important income for islanders, the Isle of Harris, in the Western Isles/Outer Hebrides of Scotland, is not generally wide known as a vacation destination. However the island has much to offer the visitor.

Tarbert is the main village on the Isle of Harris and where you can catch the roll on roll off ferry. Tarbert is something of a picture postcard scene with the old houses along the narrow main street and more modern buildings appearing on terraces up one side of the narrow green valley it is set in. In stark contrast the ferry terminal and access road are very modern having been built relatively recently to ease congestion when the ferry is in port.

North Harris is known for it's dramatic mountains and winding single track roads. As you drive along the road do not be alarmed as you drive through the main entrance of Amhuinnsuide Castle and past the castle's front door, as you are still on the public highway and have not made a wrong turn onto a private road (which I thought when I first visited the area).

The Isle of Scalpay is joined to the Isle of Harris by a long and narrow single track road bridge which is so high to allow yachts to pass freely underneath. Although Scalpay is a pretty little island with a great many fishing boats one of the most beautiful places is Eilean Glas lighthouse which can only be accessed by sea or a lengthy walk across the moor (but well worht it).

Moving along to South Harris you will notice a change of scenery. Although the east side of the island is very rocky the west side of South Harris is lush and green. the rolling hills are far softer and there are large areas of machair (highly fertile grassland), which has plenty of wildflowers and is most beautiful. It is along the west coast that you will find the most beautiful beaches on the Isle of Harris and, most probably, Scotland and even the United Kingdom.

Around the village of Scarista is the area where you will find many of the finest beaches. The village is spread along the main road with the beaches to your right as you travel southwards. Please take care when driving here as the scenery is so astounding that many visitors slow their cars almost to standstill without realizing and, although accidents are extremely rare, you could startle any traffic behind you.

Just after the beaches you arrive at the village of Leverburgh. If you are catching the ferry over to Berneray and the Uists it is here that you will have to watch for a turn off to the right which leads straight to the CalMac ferry terminal. Leverburgh is a useful place to stop and restock as it has two excellent shops. The first one you pass (on the right) also supplies fuel as well as groceries and other goods, the second is on the left and is a small post office and gift shop.

From Leverburgh onwards the road now remains inland but it is only a short distance to the last village of Rodel. At one time this was the main village on the Isle of Harris but has long since lost it's importance. It is also at Rodel that you will find one of the best tourist attractions on the Isle of Harris, the medieval St Clements Church. It is well worth a visit and after a walk in the graveyard you can call inside (the keys can be picked up at the nearby hotel) and see the incredible interior with intricately decorated tombs.

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Thinking of visiting Harris? Take a look at Isle of Harris guest house and Hebrides guest house

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